Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.

It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from four hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across the city. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Around the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from construction by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a fence on

Laura Simmons
Laura Simmons

Award-winning voice artist and audio producer with over a decade of experience in broadcasting and digital media.

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