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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.